Nestled just six miles from the coast of mainland China, Kinmen Island has been at the epicenter of the longstanding geopolitical conflict between Taiwan and China. Once a military outpost, the island has transitioned into a tourist haven, leveraging its historical significance and unique charm. Today, remnants of its military past, like rusting tanks and abandoned fortifications, serve as both a cultural touchstone and a haunting reminder of the tensions that still permeate the region. Azalea café, run by Zhang Zhong Jie, is one of these establishments that stand proudly amidst this complex backdrop, aiming to provide patrons with a taste of both coffee and history.
This coffee shop opened its doors in 2018 and quickly became popular among mainland Chinese tourists, breathing life into an island that had suffered economically following years of conflict. Local businesses have mostly relied on these tourists as their primary source of revenue, making it a pillar of Kinmen’s economy. However, this once-bustling exchange has dulled over the years due to shifting political tides and external circumstances.
Since August 2019, the Taiwanese government has largely closed off its borders to mainland tourists, a decision rooted in the deteriorating relationships with Beijing. Furthermore, the COVID-19 pandemic dealt a crippling blow to tourism around the globe, with restrictions leading to the cancellation of group tours and travel between the two territories. As a result, businesses like Zhang’s have faced existential threats with a steep decline in visitors.
The staggering drop in tourism has hit Kinmen particularly hard. Local economies that had once thrived on the influx of Chinese visitors are now grappling with loss. According to statistics, the influx of tourists plummeted from over 400,000 annually in 2019 to under 18,000 by 2023. This is not just a statistic; it represents individual livelihoods, scarred dreams, and shuttered doors for many local entrepreneurs.
With desperation coursing through the island, business owners have struggled to adapt to this new reality. Restaurant owners like Beddy Chang once relied on Chinese customers for 80 percent of her business. In the wake of the mass exodus of tourists, she has shifted her focus to exporting products; however, even this has proven to be a challenging venture as international markets become saturated.
While some businesses are doing their best to adapt, others have witnessed notable setbacks. Once a prosperous restaurant owner, Lu Wen Shiung has transitioned to fishing and offering boat tours. Yet, these new endeavors have not been without their challenges. After a tragic incident in February 2023, where a collision between Taiwanese and Chinese vessels resulted in the deaths of two people, tensions escalated significantly. Not only did this event raise concerns about safety on the water, but it also heightened the already tense political atmosphere, complicating any potential recovery.
Moreover, China’s heightened coast guard activities have made life even more precarious for Kinmen’s fishermen and those who rely on tourism. Lu’s firsthand encounters with increased military presence in the area reflect the growing anxiety surrounding daily life on Kinmen, as he wonders about the consequences of getting caught in this geopolitical tug-of-war.
Yet there are glimmers of hope. In late July, an agreement was reached between Taiwan and China regarding the tragic February incident, allowing for the repatriation of the deceased. In late September, news broke that a small group of mainland Chinese tourists had returned to Kinmen. While still a drop in the bucket compared to pre-2019 numbers, it symbolizes a possible thaw in relations.
Despite optimistic signs, many residents are doubtful that tourism will rebound to its former glory. Cultural ambassador and local tour guide Chen Hua Sheng notes how reliant Kinmen is on relationships with mainland China. The island’s economy is intertwined with the perception and reality of cross-strait tensions.
In the broader context, the situation on Kinmen serves as a microcosm of the larger dynamics at play in the Taiwan Strait—symbolizing not just a struggle for economic survival, but also an enduring friction that challenges the fabric of daily life.
As the situation remains fluid, both residents and businesses on Kinmen are watching closely. The ups and downs of tourism reflect broader geopolitical tensions, yet the optimism and resilience found among the island’s inhabitants serve as testament to their ability to hope, adapt, and strive in the face of adversity. Embracing both their complex history and the potential for future growth, individuals like Zhang and Lu are not only promoting their businesses but are embodying the spirit of Kinmen—a place intertwined with both dreams and struggles, navigating a pathway toward a more stable tomorrow.